Helmut Lang’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection dropped at New York Fashion Week, with a bare wall and wet floor serving as the backdrop. The word ‘cowboy’ emblazoned in back-to-front lettering, first seen in 2004, was the catalyst for the season’s collection presented in a one-off exhibit curated by Antwuan Sargent, the American writer, editor, and curator.
The fashion house’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection presented pieces that played with uniforms and utilitarian clothing with yolks, metal tips, rivets, articulated sleeves, and fringe accent detailing. The collection is characterized by shearling, wool, micro sequins, tulle viscose, silk organza, distressed hide, and the brand’s iconic cowboy print.
Invited to explore the complexity of the cowboy as an American icon, Antwuan Sargent, invited several artists to reinterpret Helmut’s iconic cowboy design and look at it from different viewpoints and cultural nuances. This resulted in an installation at the Hannah Traore Gallery on 150 Orchard Street, New York, featuring a series prints and art pieces exploring the theme. The collaborators are included as artist-edition T-shirts in the seasonal range.
Take a look at the Helmut Lang Fall/Winter 2023 collection in the lookbook above.
